OVERCAST SKIES, GREEN WATERS
Not many would have heard of Siliserh, a retreat near Alwar. That explains why it continues to weave its magic over those who seek solitude
MITALI KAR
Article taken from times of India :- www.timesofindia.com.Getting an extended weekend in Delhi is a luxury; and finding a reservation at hotels in the popular tourist getaways even more so. If you have to drive anything more than eight hours to get to your destination, quite a bit of the holiday has been spent travelling, right? So what’s the solution? Try Lake Palace Hotel, Siliserh, the RTDC-run property in the Alwar district of Rajasthan. Located only 173 km from Delhi, it will take you less than four hours to get there, even if you make a halt to fix a punctured tyre or grab a quick bite.
We left Delhi at seven in the morning, stopping at Daruhera (70 km) for a breakfast of alu paranthas smeared with mango pickle, washed down with steaming cups of adrak ki chai. As we made ourselves comfortable on the charpoys with the wind softly caressing our faces and munched on the paranthas, it seemed like the perfect beginning to our holiday.The car picked up speed as we left Dharuhera and made our way past Behror towards Alwar.
Monsoon Madness Alwar city, also the district headquarters, is nondescript. Chock-a-block with cars, bicycles, vendors and even cows, it is almost impossible to manoeuvre your car through the mess! And if the city has just had a spell of heavy rain, as it did on that day, the situation can be maddening — you know what it’s like on Delhi’s roads; now imagine the same scenario in a small town teeming with people!
It is possible to get lost in the lanes of Alwar. After checking with four people, we finally seemed to be on the right track. The road to Siliserh (13 km) almost springs out of nowhere. One minute there’s the mad rush, and the next, someone points to an arterial road, devoid of traffic. We cruised along and finally reached the hotel’s gates where a guard checked our credentials, noted down the number of our car and let us in.
At first glance, the hotel seemed a bit of a disappointment, well, far from what a palace shoud be! Huffing and puffing my way up to the first floor with a duffel bag didn’t seem like my idea of a good beginning to a holiday. But soon someone appeared and offered to help with the luggage. When I reached the reception, I was blown away! There it was — Lake Siliserh — in the distance like a sheet of emerald water. It was flanked on all sides by the lofty Aravallis. Not a soul was in sight! Our rooms were on the second floor of the hotel. Depositing our bags inside we rushed out to the sprawling terrace overlooking the lake. An overcast sky threatened more rain while the sharp cry of a bird broke the stillness of the air. Before I knew it, fat drops of rained pelted my hair. We rushed inside and asked for tea. Room service suggested bhajiyas as well.
Row Your Boat Siliserh’s magic lies in its solitude. No crowds (unless it is a weekend), only you and your family left to enjoy complete privacy. Just take a book and curl up on a chair in the terrace. Or go down to the lakeside and hire a paddle boat or motorboat for a ride to the middle of the lake.
Night-times have a magical air, especially in winter. The glow of fireflies in trees, a high-pitched growl — the staff insists that leopards roam the hills — and the comfort of your heated room where you are safe from the outside world. If you wish to eat out, there aren’t too many options. We checked out the dhabas about 2 km from the gate, asked them to prepare our dinner (‘be here by 7.30 pm,’ said the owner, as they close by 9 every evening), and left. When we returned, there were bonfires to beat the chill; the flames casting eerie shadows in the distance. It was surreal. The dhaba had excelled itself. Chicken curry with dhania, bharta, moong dal, rice and roti… if that wasn’t enough he had cooked kheer as well!
Magic In The Air We laughed, we joked, we had the time of our lives. Slowly the last embers of the fire ebbed away and
darkness began to settle in. Mosquitoes came out in full force (so it is advisable to carry a repellant). And the patient dhaba owner and his staff waited for us to finish our meal.
We didn’t want the night to end. But it was only fair that we left and allowed our hosts to clear up. Thanking them profusely, we drove back to the hotel. That night I heard a roar far away. Had a leopard found its prey? Who knew! I was safe in my room...
SILISERH TRIVIA
• In 1845, Maharaja Vinay Singh built a palace-cum-hunting lodge for his queen, Sheela. Now a hotel, it overlooks a 10.5 sq km lake that fringes the wooded inclines of the Aravallis
• Rowboats and paddleboats are available on hire to take you on excursions around the lake. Locals claim the lake has crocodiles!
• Best time to visit: September to April
• The closest town is Alwar. A day trip is recommended for its attractions — Moosa Rani ki chhattri (built in memory of Rani Moosi who committed sati on the pyre of her husband Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh), Moti Doongri palace (only the temples are open to the public), Alwar Vinay Vilas Mahal (for rare manuscripts, paintings and weaponry).
TIPS
• If you want to avoid the traffic at Alwar, continue on NH 8, without taking a diversion at Dharuhera. Travel time is longer, but the drive is smooth
• Look out for the langurs outside your room at the hotel. Their numbers have diminished in the last few years, but it would be prudent to ensure that you don’t keep your windows open
• Alwar’s (13 km away) markets have a stunning range of traditional silver jewellery. Anklets, earrings, bangles… they are available at reasonable prices. Also look out for tie-and-dye bedcovers, dupattas and fabric for a fraction of the price at which you get them in Delhi
• Don’t miss Alwar’s milk cake. Soft, with the right amount of sweetness, it is one of the goodies you should carry back home
• For those travelling to Sariska wildlife sanctuary (30 km from Alwar), do include a visit to Kankawadi Fort. It is here that Aurangzeb had imprisoned his brother, Dara Shikoh. However, the track leading to the fort is, literally, like the moon’s crater. The car will careen from side to side — if you are prone to backaches, avoid Share your travel experience with us at traveltimes@indiatimes.com
(Clockwise from below): Boating at Lake Siliserh; A sambar in Sariska sanctuary; Kankawadi Fort; Shopping for saris at Alwar; Moosa Rani ki Chhatri, in memory of a queen
